In 1650, if you had two cows and a party to throw, you could exchange the heifers for a keg of vodka. Then, the drink was called “bread wine,” it was expensive and it did the trick. Today, vodka is widely enjoyed as one of the cleanest — if not the cleanest of — premium spirits. It’s readily available, costs as much or as little as you’d like to pay, and still does the trick just fine.
While it might have started as a spirit distilled from grains, today “vodka can be made out of any organic product,” says Jared Meisler, who with co-owner Sean MacPherson runs Bar Lubitsch, a top spot for vodka lovers in Los Angeles.
In fact, though most modern vodka is produced from grains like sorghum, corn, rye or wheat, it’s not limited to that. Potatoes are still used, as are molasses, soybeans, grapes and sugar beets. Some Central European countries ferment a solution of sugar crystal and yeast, while others use by-products of oil refining or wood pulp processing to make their spirit. A company in the United States named Vermont Spirits even uses maple syrup for its Vermont Gold vodka. The sources are more varied, and the results far more refined, than vodka’s original distillers could have imagined.
“There are so many vodkas, vodka drinkers don’t necessarily need to stick to tradition,” says Meisler. “We’re not talking about Jack Daniels compared to Bacardi; it’s all within the same family.”
Though it has its roots in “bread wine” of the mid-900s, the modern spirit’s first official mention comes in 15th century court documents of the Polish town of Sandomierz. The drink was included in a 1534 book of herbs by Stefan Falimierz as being able to “increase fertility and awaken lust.” By June 8, 1751 it had awakened government regulators, evidenced by Russia’s Empress Elizabeth grabbing control of all vodka distilleries. Due to her move, the clear spirit was bringing in as much as 40 percent of Russia’s state revenue by the mid 19th century.
In 1863 state control was repealed, the price went through the floor and 50 years later vodka accounted for 89 percent of all alcohol consumed in Russia. Today in Russia, vodka accounts for near 70 percent and it’s no wonder, what with the huge variety available.
Likewise, for those of us in the U.S. who enjoy a glass, the options are almost unlimited. Meisler says traditionalists will like Russia’s ubiquitous Stolichnaya, Poland’s Luksosowa and Austria’s Monopolowa (made from Polish recipes). Holland’s Ketel One is an excellent choice; it’s made by the Nolet family, which still runs the original Nolet Family Distillery, founded in Schiedam in 1691. Shusstof, a Ukrainian vodka founded in 1863 by a famous Russian distiller of the same name, is a good example of a modern vodka with old-school foundations, while Tino’s vodka from Austin, Texas, is just plain modern (and good).
As you move away from traditionally styled vodkas, the choices open up. One of Meisler’s favorites is Circoc, distilled from snap-frost grapes grown in the high Gaillac region of France. Another includes Modern Spirits’ black truffle vodka, distilled in Los Angeles (of all places) and naturally infused with real black truffles. The company’s other offerings include such infusions as candied ginger, celery peppercorn, pear lavender and — for the holidays only — even pumpkin pie. Ukraine’s Nemiroff vodka features chilli peppers and honey, while back on the non-infused side of things Iceland’s Reyka vodka is as crisp, clean and beautiful as the country in which it’s created.
As Bar Lubitsch does with its premium vodkas, Meisler says the best way to serve a top offering is chilled in a chilled shot glass. Mixing something like Ciroc with club soda or tonic kills the subtleties, he says, though he adds that how one enjoys his (or her) vodka is largely a matter of personal taste. If you do enjoy a mixer such as tonic, Meisler suggests using a vodka with a stronger taste. For his part, the cocktails at Bar Lubitsch are crafted around the flavors of the vodkas used. All are designed to complement the natural flavor of the vodka, not hide it, and all use fresh organic ingredients to put an original spin on bartending classics.
For a great shot of vodka, a bar like Bar Lubitsch is a good bet. Don’t be afraid to tell your bartender what you like and don’t like, and to try something different.
For those looking to push their celebration of vodka beyond a mere drink, there’s an official Vodka Museum in Moscow. Art, literature, official documents, empty vodka bottles and all manner of other bits relating to vodka are on display, including, of course, vodka itself. Now slightly less expensive than two cows, it’s a great deal no matter where you get it.
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